For medical equipment users, see important information

• Consult the appliance manufacturer if it is compatible with a modified sine wave output from an inverter. This is especially important for computers and cordless power tools. Equipment not made to support a modified sine wave from an inverter or generator may be damaged if connected to the inverter.
• Check the appliance rating label, it should be listed in Amps or Watts. If rating is listed in amps, multiply the amps by 120 volts. The answer will be the watts required. This number should be lower than the continuous wattage rating of the inverter.

• If the appliance has a motor or picture tube, start-up surge must also be considered. Start-up surge is extra watts the appliance requires to turn on or "start-up". The start-up surge can be as high as 10 times its rated watts. An example of this would be a skill saw. The lights in the house can dim when the saw is first turned on. This dimming is the start-up surge. With the start-up surge in mind, select an inverter with a continuous wattage rating equal to or larger than the start-up surge.
• Microwave cooking power is not the power required to operate the microwave. It generally requires twice the cooking power. Check the appliance rating label, it should be listed in Amps or Watts. If rating is listed in amps, multiply the amps by 120 volts. The answer will be the watts required. This number should be lower than the continuous wattage rating of the inverter.
• IMPORTANT: Before operating medical equipment, such as a nebulizer, check with the medical equipment manufacturer. Majority of medical equipment are not compatible with modified sine waves.
• Will not run my "x" inch TV.
  It may...If the TV's wattage rating is below the continuous watts of the inverter. Some older TV's may need to be "Jumped Started" to turn on, meaning the inverter's power switch needs to be turned off/on/off/on several times (with the TV left on) to charge the TV's power supply. Once charged, the inverter will run it fine.
  It may part 2...Some new TV’s may require to be plugged into the inverter (with the inverter on) for several minutes before the TV can be turned on. It could also be the lighter socket. The lighter socket wiring may be too small to handle the start up surge. This will cause the inverter to shut down. Testing this with the socket adapter directly to the battery. If it works this way then it's the lighter socket wiring.
  It may not...If the TV's wattage rating is below the continuous watts of the inverter. Newer TV's power on/off switch controls internal software (computer) components which does not support jump starting. Use a higher wattage inverter or a different TV. See first bullet on modified sine waves.

If using a 140 to 400 watt inverter;

• Try connecting directly to the battery using a lighter socket adapter (Supplied with the 300 to 400W models). Could be that the lighter socket  is dirty or loose or that the wiring to the lighter socket is too small a gauge to support an inverter.
• Turn the VCR on first, then the TV. This may allow the VCR's power supply to start correctly.

View of a modified sine wave signal	View of a true sine wave signal

Some appliances do not work well or not at all with a modified sine wave. Consult the appliance manufacturer if it is compatible with a modified sine wave output from an inverter. This is especially important for computers and cordless power tools. Equipment not made to support a modified sine wave from an inverter or generator may be damaged if connected to an inverter.

This is a low battery voltage alarm. The input voltage is below 11 volts (GO-AC models voltage alarm is 10.5 volts) and the inverter is notifying you to check the battery voltage. Either recharge the battery or discontinue use of the appliance. If battery is not recharged and appliance is still in use, the battery voltage will continue to drop and the inverter will shut off to prevent total battery drain. The alarm will continue to sound until the inverter is shut off or the battery voltage rises above 12 volts.

The unit will also buzz if using a smaller gauge wire (higher number) than what is required. Ex; A 500 watt inverter needs at least an 8 gauge wire when the inverter is up to 10 feet away from the battery. See What Size Cable Should I Use?.

This is an indication that the inverter has shut itself off by:

• low or high voltage input (<10.5, >15.5 [GO-AC models <9.5, >16])
• thermal shutdown (unit overheated)
• a start-up surge higher than the peak wattage of the inverter
• A shorted appliance

The unit may also be defective if the LED is illuminated and no appliances are plugged into the inverter. This could be caused by a extreme limit of one of the above examples. If the appliance worked once then stopped, click here.

The inverter will run continuously if:

• The battery(ies) voltage maintains 11 volts(10.5 volts for GO-AC models) or higher (15.5 volts max 16 volts max for GO-AC models).
• Sufficient air spacing and ventilation around the inverter
• Not unusually high air temperatures (90+)
• Wattage is below continuous rating of inverter

For example; What is the amp/hour of a battery with 100 reserve minutes?

How long will a battery last?

A 300 watt inverter providing 150 watts connected to a fully charged 100 reserve minutes battery will last approximately 2 hours. To determine the power the inverter needs from the battery click here.

Normal vehicle alternators range from 65 to 90 amps. For example a 1500 watt inverter supplying power to a 1000 watt appliance requires 100 amps from the battery. With the vehicle's alternator rated at 90 amps, this is a 10 amp drain for the battery. Using the above battery, the car will be dead within 3 hours! Not only will the car be dead but the alternator may burn out because it was trying to recharge the battery at its full output. Alternators do not like to work full out.

A larger alternator, at least 20 to 30 amps more than what's needed will be required to keep the battery charged. A 110 or 120 amp alternator would be required in this application. If the 1500 watt was used at its continuous rating a 170 to 180 amp alternator is needed.

Follow the chart below to choose the right size cable.

Measure the distance from the battery to the inverter. The wire gauge needed is in red.
 

Feet from Battery 140/150 Watt 300/350 Watt 750 Watt 1000 Watt 1500 Watt 2500 Watt* 4 14 12 8 6 2 0 6 12 10 8 6 2 0 8 12 8 8 4 2 0 10 12 8 6 4 2 2/0 12 10 8 6 2 0 2/0 14 10 6 4 2 0 2/0 16 10 6 4 2 0 3/0 18 8 6 4 0 0 3/0 20 8 6 4 0 0 3/0 22 8 6 4 0 0 4/0 24 8 4 2 0 2/0 4/0 26 8 4 2 0 2/0 4/0

Twist (make a coil cord out of it) the 12 volt input wires (thick wires may not be possible) and also the AC line cord.

If receiving lines though the TV screen, add the in-line filter from radio shack (Radio Shack P/N 273-105) on the TV's power cord, (more than 1 may be required).

Plugging the RV only into the inverter?

Important: Add up the number of watts on all of the devices you wish to power. Divide that number by 10. This will give you the amps required to run the devices for a hour. Check the amp hour rate of the RV's battery by multiplying the reserve minutes rating of the battery by 0.3. For more information on amp/hrs click here.
The amp/hr. rating of the battery should be higher than the total number of amps required by the devices. The larger the difference between amp/hr. rating of the battery (higher number) and the total Amps used (lower number), the longer the devices can be used.

• More than 1 battery may be required depending on devices operating and for how long.
• Keep the wire length for the inverter very short. This will eliminate any power losses to the inverter through the 12 volt cable.
• Shut off circuit breakers to certain appliances, such as microwave's and A/C units, before connecting RV to inverter. This will prevent any current surges that might shut down the inverter.
• Turn off the on board battery charger. The battery charger will only shorten the inverter run time.

Switching the power from the line (shore power - boats) to the inverter?

Important: If inverter is to be permanently mounted inside the vehicle (house or boat), a line switch is required to prevent damage to the inverter. Without this switch, 110 volts will try to enter the inverter as the inverter is trying to provide 110 volt output, (Assuming that the line is active). Have a qualified electrician install this switch. Line switches are available at any electrical outlet store.

Note: Both the hot and the neutral of the plug must be switched! If not, damage to the inverter will result.

Important: The AC ground and the DC ground can not be connected together! See grounding the inverter.

See the Overload section for more information.

• Need to convert "hp" into watts first.
  Follow this simple formula - hp x 750 = Watts.
  One hp motor requires approximately 750 Watts.
   
• To convert Watts into hp:
  Follow this simple formula - Watts x .00134 = hp.

Our inverters do not have these outlets built in.

GFI outlets work fine with our inverters. If a GFI trips when connected, double check outlet wiring and grounding of inverter.

Example of installing an inverter to a house or RV:

The modified sine wave output confuses non true RMS meters. For more information on modified sine waves click here.