| Inverter will not
run my appliance (TV, VCR, Microwave, etc).
|
|
For medical equipment users, see important
information
- Consult the appliance manufacturer if it is compatible with a modified
sine wave output from an inverter. This is especially important
for computers and cordless power
tools. Equipment not made to support a modified sine wave from an
inverter or generator may be damaged if connected to the inverter.
- Check the appliance rating label, it should be listed in Amps or Watts. If
rating is listed in amps, multiply the amps by 120 volts. The answer will be
the watts required. This number should be lower than the continuous
wattage rating of the inverter.
- If the appliance has a motor or picture tube, start-up surge must also be considered. Start-up
surge is extra watts the appliance requires to turn on or "start-up". The
start-up surge can be as high as 10 times its rated watts. An example of this
would be a skill saw. The lights in the house can dim when the saw is first
turned on. This dimming is the start-up surge. With the start-up surge in
mind, select an inverter with a continuous wattage rating equal to or larger
than the start-up surge.
- Microwave cooking power is not the power required to operate the
microwave. It generally requires twice the cooking power. Check the
appliance rating label, it should be listed in Amps or Watts. If rating is
listed in amps, multiply the amps by 120 volts. The answer will be the watts
required. This number should be lower than the continuous wattage
rating of the inverter.
- IMPORTANT: Before operating medical
equipment, such as a nebulizer, check with the medical equipment manufacturer.
Majority of medical equipment are not compatible with modified
sine waves.
- Will not run my "x" inch TV.
It may...If the TV's wattage rating is
below the continuous watts of the inverter. Some older TV's may need to be
"Jumped Started" to turn on, meaning the inverter's power switch needs to be
turned off/on/off/on several times (with the TV left on) to charge the TV's
power supply. Once charged, the inverter will run it fine. It may
part 2...Some new TVs may require to be plugged into the inverter (with the
inverter on) for several minutes before the TV can be turned on. It could
also be the lighter socket. The lighter socket wiring may be too small to
handle the start up surge. This will cause the inverter to shut down.
Testing this with the socket adapter directly to the battery. If it works
this way then it's the lighter socket wiring. It
may not...If the TV's wattage rating is below the continuous
watts of the inverter. Newer TV's power on/off switch controls internal
software (computer) components which does not support jump starting. Use a
higher wattage inverter or a different TV. See first
bullet on modified sine waves.
|
| Why does my VCR run slow?
|
|
If using a 140 to 400 watt inverter;
- Try connecting directly to the battery using a lighter socket adapter
(Supplied with the 300 to 400W models). Could be that the lighter socket is
dirty or loose or that the wiring to the lighter socket is too small a gauge
to support an inverter.
- Turn the VCR on first, then the TV. This may allow the VCR's power supply
to start correctly.
Another possibility if the VCR runs slow is
compatibility. Running slow is an indication that the VCR does not operate
correctly with a modified
sine wave.
|
| What is a modified sine
wave? |
To produce AC from 12 VDC a couple of steps or conversions
take place inside the inverter. First step is the input voltage (12 volts) is
increased to 145 VDC. Step two, the 145 VDC is converted to 110 VAC by using
advanced MOSFET transistors. The resulting AC output from this conversion is
called a "modified sine wave". It looks like a squared off sine wave.
 |
 |
| View
of a modified sine wave signal |
View
of a true sine wave signal |
Some appliances do not work well or not at all with a modified sine wave.
Consult the appliance manufacturer if it is compatible with a modified sine wave
output from an inverter. This is especially important for computers and cordless power tools. Equipment not made to support a
modified sine wave from an inverter or generator may be damaged if connected to
an inverter.
|
| Unit makes a buzzing
sound. |
|
This is a low battery voltage alarm. The input voltage is
below 11 volts (GO-AC models voltage alarm is 10.5 volts) and the inverter is notifying you to check the battery voltage.
Either recharge the battery or discontinue use of the appliance. If battery is
not recharged and appliance is still in use, the battery voltage will continue
to drop and the inverter will shut off to prevent total battery drain. The alarm
will continue to sound until the inverter is shut off or the battery voltage
rises above 12 volts.
The unit will also buzz if using a smaller gauge wire (higher number) than what
is required. Ex; A 500 watt inverter needs at least an 8 gauge wire when the
inverter is up to 10 feet away from the battery. See What Size
Cable Should I Use?.
|
| Overload or Red
LED light illuminates. |
|
This is an indication that the inverter has
shut itself off by:
- low or high voltage input (<10.5, >15.5 [GO-AC models <9.5, >16])
- thermal shutdown (unit overheated)
- a start-up surge
higher than the peak wattage of the inverter
- A shorted appliance
While trying to watch a TV for example, and
the Red LED illuminates when the TV is turned on, try rocking the inverter's
on/off switch off then on several times. This procedure
"jump starts" the TV's power supply and helps the inverter get over the TV's
start-up surge.
The unit may also be defective if the LED is illuminated and no appliances
are plugged into the inverter. This could be caused by a extreme limit of one of
the above examples. If the appliance worked once then stopped, click here.
|
| Inverter works fine
but shuts off (Red LED on) when engine runs. |
|
At this higher voltage, start up current for the device along with engine
noise produces a false overload condition. Simply leave device switched
on, turn inverter off then back on. This should solve the problem.
|
| Fan stays on constantly. |
|
The fan remains on constantly with inverters that have a continuous wattage
rating of 100 to 500 watts and our larger PI Series. Some larger models have thermostatically controlled fans and thus only come on when necessary.
|
| How much power does the inverter need from
the batteries? |
|
As a rule of thumb (leaning on the high side), an
inverter will require 10% of its continuous wattage rating from a battery.
Example: A 300 watt inverter providing 300 watts to an appliance will require 30
amps from the battery. The same inverter providing 150 watts to an appliance
will require 15 amps from the battery.
|
| How long will the
inverter run on batteries? |
|
The inverter will run continuously if:
- The battery(ies) voltage maintains 11 volts(10.5 volts for GO-AC models) or higher (15.5 volts max 16 volts max for GO-AC models).
- Sufficient air spacing and ventilation around the inverter
- Not unusually high air temperatures (90+)
- Wattage is below continuous rating of inverter
To determine how
long a typical battery will last we need to find the amp/hour rating of the
battery. The cold cranking amps or CCA rating is only a number to compare
manufacturers batteries. Somewhere on the battery labeling there should be a
"reserve minutes" specification. Simply times the "reserve minutes" number by .3
to get an amp/hour rating for the battery.
For example; What is the amp/hour of a battery with 100 reserve minutes?
100 x .3 = 30 amp/hours
How long will a battery last? A 300 watt inverter
providing 150 watts connected to a fully charged 100 reserve minutes battery
will last approximately 2 hours. To determine the power the inverter needs from
the battery click here.
30/15 amps = 2 hours
The higher the "reserve minutes" the longer the inverter will
work.
|
| Vehicle Electrical
System (alternators) |
|
A major consideration when installing large
inverters (500 Watts and higher) is the charging system. The charging system
must be able to keep ahead of the current drain from the inverter plus the drain
of the remaining systems in the vehicle.
Normal vehicle alternators range
from 65 to 90 amps. For example a 1500 watt inverter supplying power to a 1000
watt appliance requires 100 amps from the battery. With the vehicle's alternator
rated at 90 amps, this is a 10 amp drain for the battery. Using the above
battery, the car will be dead within 3 hours! Not only will the car be dead but
the alternator may burn out because it was trying to recharge the battery at its
full output. Alternators do not like to work full out.
A larger alternator,
at least 20 to 30 amps more than what's needed will be required to keep the
battery charged. A 110 or 120 amp alternator would be required in this
application. If the 1500 watt was used at its continuous rating a 170 to 180 amp
alternator is needed.
|
| What size cable do I
use? |
|
Follow the chart below to choose the right size cable. Measure the distance from the battery to the inverter. The wire gauge needed
is in red.
|
Feet from Battery |
200 Watt |
400 Watt |
800 Watt |
1200 Watt* |
2000 Watt* |
3000 Watt* |
|
4 |
14 |
10 |
8 |
6 |
4 |
2 |
|
6 |
12 |
10 |
6 |
4 |
2 |
0 |
|
8 |
12 |
8 |
6 |
4 |
2 |
0 |
|
10 |
10 |
8 |
4 |
2 |
0 |
2/0 |
|
12 |
10 |
6 |
4 |
2 |
0 |
3/0 |
|
14 |
8 |
6 |
2 |
0 |
2/0 |
3/0 |
|
16 |
8 |
6 |
2 |
0 |
2/0 |
4/0 |
|
18 |
8 |
4 |
2 |
0 |
3/0 |
4/0 |
|
20 |
8 |
4 |
2 |
0 |
3/0 |
2/0(2 sets) |
|
22 |
6 |
4 |
0 |
2/0 |
4/0 |
2/0(2 sets) |
|
24 |
6 |
4 |
0 |
2/0 |
4/0 |
3/0(2 sets) |
|
26 |
6 |
2 |
0 |
2/0 |
4/0 |
3/0(2 sets) |
|
*Note Using multiple #0, #00(2/0), #000 (3/0) gauge wire may be required.
2 sets of #0 gauge cables can be substituted for one set of #0000 (4/0) gauge cables.
2 sets of #2 gauge are equal to one set of #00 gauge cables (2/0)
|
| Static Reception on
Stereo's, CB's etc. |
|
Add a ground wire from the case of the
inverter to ground of the vehicle or earth ground. See grounding
tips first!
Twist (make a coil cord out of it) the 12 volt input wires (thick wires may
not be possible) and also the AC line cord.
If receiving lines though the TV screen, add the in-line filter from radio
shack (Radio Shack P/N 273-105) on the TV's power cord, (more than 1 may be
required).
|
| Connecting An Inverter To A
RV/Boat: |
|
Plugging the RV only into the inverter?
Important: Add up the number of watts on all of the devices
you wish to power. Divide that number by 10. This will give you the amps
required to run the devices for a hour. Check the amp hour rate of the RV's
battery by multiplying the reserve minutes rating of the battery by 0.3. For
more information on amp/hrs click here.
The amp/hr. rating of the battery should be higher than the total number of
amps required by the devices. The larger the difference between amp/hr. rating
of the battery (higher number) and the total Amps used (lower number), the
longer the devices can be used.
- More than 1 battery may be required depending on devices operating and for
how long.
- Keep the wire length for the inverter very short. This will eliminate any
power losses to the inverter through the 12 volt cable.
- Shut off circuit breakers to certain appliances, such as microwave's and
A/C units, before connecting RV to inverter. This will prevent any current
surges that might shut down the inverter.
- Turn off the on board battery charger. The battery charger will only shorten the inverter run time.
Switching the power from
the line (shore power - boats) to the inverter?
Important: If inverter is to be permanently mounted
inside the vehicle (house or boat), a line switch is required to prevent damage
to the inverter. Without this switch, 110 volts will try to enter the inverter
as the inverter is trying to provide 110 volt output, (Assuming that the line is
active). Have a qualified electrician install this switch. Line switches are
available at any electrical outlet store.
Note: Both the hot and the neutral of the plug must be
switched! If not, damage to the inverter will result.
Important: The AC ground and the DC ground can not be connected
together! See grounding
the inverter.
|
| Connecting an inverter
to a house. |
|
Follow instructions for RV's
|
| Works one time but not
now. |
|
It is possible that the inverter was overloaded when used the
last time and damaged something inside. Use of the inverter in a dirty or loose
lighter socket might of limited the current the inverter needed to operate. This
made the internal circuits work harder and caused a failure.
See the
Overload section for more
information.
|
| Rechargeable
Products |
|
Before using a rechargeable product (i.e., cell phones,
battery chargers, lap tops) check with the manufacturer to see if it is
compatible with a modified
sine wave. Some appliances can be damaged if connected to an inverter
or generator. For more information on compatibility click here.
|
| Will it run my "x" hp
motor? |
To determine which inverter will operate the motor, we
need to know what the wattage of the motor is and then add in the start up
surge.
- Need to convert "hp" into watts first.
Follow this
simple formula - hp x 750 = Watts. One
hp motor requires approximately 750 Watts.
- To convert Watts into hp:
Follow this simple formula - Watts x .00134 =
hp. Once the watts are determined
multiply that wattage by 10, ( This number is on the high side. Smaller motors
may require only 2 - 6 times the wattage), this will give you the start up surge
of the motor. For more information on start up surge click here.
|
| What is the size and
weight? |
|
Model Inverter |
Size |
Weight |
| 140 Watt |
2.0"H x 5.0"W x 5.5"L |
1.8 lbs |
| GO-AC 150 Watt |
9.75"H x 5.5"W x 2.0"L |
2.0 lbs |
| GO-AC 200 Watt |
8.75"H x 5.5"W x 2.0"L |
2.0 lbs |
| 300 Watt |
2.0"H x 6.75"W x 5.5"L |
2.4 lbs |
| GO-AC 350 Watt |
11.0"H x 5.5"W x 2.0"L |
2.6 lbs |
| GO-AC 400 Watt |
9.75"H x 5.5"W x 2.0"L |
2.4 lbs |
| 500 Watt |
2.75"H x 7.5"W x 10.5"L |
6.5 lbs |
| GO-AC 750 Watt |
3"H x 7.25"W x 14"L |
4.5 lbs |
| 1000/1250 Watt |
3.25"H x 10.25"W x 13.5"L |
7.25 lbs |
| 1500/1750 Watt |
3.25"H x 10.25"W x 18.5"L |
10.25 lbs |
| 2500/2750 Watt |
6.5"H x 9.0"W x 19.25"L |
19.3 lbs |
| If your model is not listed, see our inverter page for specs. |
|
|
| Do
the inverters have Ground Fault Interrupt GFI connectors? Can I connect a GFI outlet to an inverter? |
|
GFI is short for Ground Fault Interrupt. You see these outlets in your
bathroom or kitchen. They have generally 2 buttons on them labeled trip and
reset. What these do is trip (turn off the voltage to the outlet) and pop
out the trip button when the outlet senses a current difference between one of
the thin plugs (known as "hot"[short plug] and "neutral"[long plug]). Water
(condensation) generally will cause this. A defective appliance's wiring will
trip it also.
Our inverters do not have these outlets built in.
GFI
outlets work fine with our inverters. If a GFI trips when connected, double
check outlet wiring and grounding
of inverter.
|
| What is the current
draw of the inverter? |
|
Model Inverter |
12V Pwr Requirement @ Rated
Output |
Idle Current Draw In mA |
|
PP140AC |
14 Amps |
< 0.10A |
|
GO-AC PP150AC |
15 Amps |
< 0.10A |
|
GO-AC PP200AC |
20 Amps |
< 0.20A |
|
PP300AC |
30 Amps |
< 0.20A |
|
GO-AC PP350AC |
35 Amps |
< 0.20A |
|
GO-AC PP400AC |
40 Amps |
< 0.30A |
|
PP500AC |
50 Amps |
< 0.30A |
|
GO-AC PP750AC |
75 Amps |
< 0.40A |
|
PP1000AC |
100 Amps |
< 0.32A |
|
PP1250AC |
125 Amps |
< 0.32A |
|
PP1500AC |
150 Amps |
< 0.37A |
|
PP1750AC |
175 Amps |
< 0.37A |
|
PP2500AC |
250 Amps |
< 0.60A |
|
PP2750AC |
275 Amps |
<
0.60A |
|
|
| How do I connect more
than one battery? |
The following drawings show how to wire multiple batteries to an inverter. To
connect 3 or more 12 volt batteries, the same principal applies. Simply
add the additional battery(ies) in between the ones shown. Six volt batteries must be connected in pairs.
| 12 Volt Batteries Connected in Parallel. This doubles the
current. |
6 Volt Batteries Connected in Series. This doubles the voltage
to 12 volts. |
 |
 |
|
|
| Do I have to
ground the inverter? |
|
Models PP750AC and up have a ground
terminal on the back of the unit. This will connect to ground of the vehicle,
either to the negative terminal of the inverter, the chassis of the vehicle or
the battery ground. If connection is inside a home, RV or boat; connect this
ground to the AC ground. AC and DC grounds must not
be connected together! Damage to the unit will result.
Example of installing an inverter to a house or
RV:
|
| Why does my voltmeter
show less than 110 volts? |
|
For accurate measurement of the output
voltage of the inverter, a voltmeter with "True RMS Voltmeter" marking on it
must be used. Typical brands of this voltmeter are; Fluke 87 and 8060A, Beckman
4410 or Triplett 4200. If your voltmeter is not one of these brands or does not
have a "True RMS" marking on the unit, it will read 20 to 30 volts low.
The
modified sine wave output confuses non true RMS meters. For more information on
modified sine waves click here.
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